Full Pour tag:fullpour.com,2008-09-13://1 2012-01-21T01:57:47Z Wine, tasting notes, opinions, digressions. Movable Type Pro 4.21-en Aborigen Ácrata Portada 2006 tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.993 2012-01-21T02:00:00Z 2012-01-21T01:57:47Z This wine's presumably grown somewhere near Ensenada - that's the only address on the back of the bottle - but exactly where, I have no idea. All I know for sure is that this wine is half grenache, nearly half... Chris
Clearly unfiltered, swirling the wine leaves the glass with a sparkly coat of residue. The color is that massively purple purple that carignane seems to do so well; it still looks joyously young, even if the wine itself is a hair over five years old at this point. The wine is all sweet fruit with a backing of toasted acorn mush; there's a savory, umami edge to the cheery/cherry Pop-Tart fruit and thankfully very little of the varnished carignane note I was expecting.

The first big surprise is the weight of the wine; although there appears to be quite a bit of alcohol judging by the legs, there's not very much at all for a New World wine: just over thirteen percent. As a result, the fat, unctuous Rolland-esque mouthfeel the visuals suggest is absolutely nowhere to be found. Instead, you get a savory mouthful of dried grape and date pudding, with a long, dusky finish of subliminal oak and soft, gentle tannin.

On the whole, I really do like this wine. On the other hand, it's something of a surprise to drink a carignane that is so tasteful and/or elegantly restrained. The other wine I've had from this winery was 100% carignane, twice the price, and was a massive sensorily overwhelming experience that was pure visceral pleasure. This wine, on the other hand, reminds me of what French wine is like when it's very, very good: mineral, savory, elegant, and yet fruity without being trashy. It's exceptional, and yet I almost find myself wishing it were more rambunctious.
]]>
Aborigen
Price: $30
Closure: Diam
Source: Retail ]]> The Scholium Project the wisdom of Theuth 2010 tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.992 2012-01-14T01:00:00Z 2012-01-14T00:45:37Z Here in San Diego, it's a balmy 25.7°C - sure, it's technically winter, but it sure doesn't feel like a good time to bust out the high octane Zinfandel that goes so well with a fireplace (bearskin rug optional, of... Chris 25.7°C - sure, it's technically winter, but it sure doesn't feel like a good time to bust out the high octane Zinfandel that goes so well with a fireplace (bearskin rug optional, of course). Instead, I'm splitting the difference with a heavy white wine.

On an aside: I'm even more confused about the whole verdejo-verdelho thing after a recent trip to Spain; I came home with a bottle of godello, which is apparently the same as verdelho, which is apparently distinct from verdejo. Go figure. Anyhow: Australians and Californians say verdelho just as surely as we say mataro, so verdelho it is.

You could easily mistake this wine for Asturian cider if you served it in the wrong glass: it's got that fat, rich, flat sparkling wine color to it. As is usually the case for this winery, there's obviously a metric ton of alcohol involved, with the kind of legs that would be banned in Utah. The nose is wonderfully complex, with an initial hit of cucumber cold cream, lemon zest, bitter almonds, and empty, waxed wooden floors in a cold German hallway in the countryside, with traces of hay and old leather bookbags.

Unctuous and slippery, the wine is bone dry; all of the texture is strictly alcoholic. There's a fine-grained acidity that works well against the bitter chalkiness of the wine; there's an elegant tension between a sense of fresh baked bread with slightly green edges on the nose and the bottom-heavy, quince marmelade of the wine. Finally, apparently only to drive home the point that this wine is serious business, there's a seductive hint of stony minerality.

Should you age this wine? No, probably not. What you should do is obvious (and a categorical imperative): buy some, cool it (but don't chill it), and serve it to friends with marzipan or strong cheeses. I know it's a vanishingly small category, but The Scholium Project is (I believe) far and away the finest producer of verdelho in North America. If you don't know what verdelho tastes like, this is your best introduction to the genre.
]]>
The Scholium Project
Price: $28
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail ]]> Stefano Lubiana Brut Reserve NV tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.991 2012-01-09T09:09:44Z 2012-01-09T09:30:06Z The world of moderately priced Australian sparkling wine can be mouth-puckering in its disappointment, so I'm always on the lookout for good wines at prices cheaper than low-end Champagne. My go-to wine for a while has been the regular Brown... Julian
On pouring, an alarmingly abundant mousse that settles quickly to a subdued, spare bead. The nose is initially savoury, with hints of mushroom and yeast, though this could never be described as a style that is heavy on these elements. Rather, they are an accent to fine, crisp fruit notes, part apple and part strawberry, delicate and bright.

The palate is stirring while, thankfully, avoiding the edgy acid that can plague our affordable sparklings. Entry is lively and surprisingly full, rounded fruit flavours becoming more prominent as the line progresses. This fullness does come at the expense of defined incisiveness; whether this is a good or bad thing is, I imagine, a matter of taste. For me, it robs the wine of that last ounce of freshness. No matter; there's plenty of flavour and a well-balanced amount of spritz. Dosage seems restrained. The after palate is brighter, tilting towards a citrus sharpness that becomes bleached as the wine moves through its ultra-clean finish.

This is a cleverly made wine that privileges drinkability above clarity of articulation. A real crowd-pleaser.
]]>
Stefano Lubiana Wines
Price: $A34
Closure: Cork
Source: Sample ]]> Domaine Dublère Puligny-Montrachet 2006 tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.990 2012-01-07T10:08:54Z 2012-01-07T20:49:05Z On reflection, I was rather too dismissive of this wine on first tasting for, although I clearly enjoyed it, I pegged it as a "drink now" wine, something it certainly was, but it's now showing some bottle age to distinct... Julian first tasting for, although I clearly enjoyed it, I pegged it as a "drink now" wine, something it certainly was, but it's now showing some bottle age to distinct advantage too. A wine not to be underestimated, then.

My earlier note stands, except now there's both more volume and better integration. Any hint of restraint on the nose is gone; this is a minerally delight, complex and distinct and etched all at the same time. It's still a lean wine in terms of its aroma profile, preferring angularity to flesh. There's also a depth to it, in the way layers of glass can have depth as well as brilliance.

The palate remains powerful but has lost the boisterousness of three years ago that suggested a slight clumsiness of flow. This is now very much in the groove, with strong, clear melon fruit tumbling over firm acid and a range of savoury notes. The winemaking is here most evident, with a range of oak and lees derived notes, from oatmeal to cashews and more. The after palate fans out most pleasingly, and the finish is well extended.

There's no obvious bottle age here. The wine has simply relaxed and learned to express itself without angst, earning a sense of poise it lacked as a youngster. Quite delicious.
]]>
Domaine Dublère
Price: $A63
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail ]]> Yelland & Papps Divine Grenache 2009 tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.989 2012-01-05T09:20:24Z 2012-01-07T08:32:38Z Julian
This reserve-level wine is a great case in point. As significant as is the companion Shiraz, this is quite a different wine in the glass, more fruit-focused and hedonistic. The oak intrudes at first, throwing coffee grounds into your face as you smell the wine, but (unlike with the Shiraz) these notes develop quickly and fold back into an aroma profile that is lusciously typical: red fruits, a medicinal note, some confection. The curse of cheap Grenache can be an overly sweet fruit character, akin to boiled lollies and, for me, quite unattractive. While this wine hints at that character, it escapes completely its destructive side, expressing an altogether denser, though still bright, set of flavours.

The palate's structure and mouthfeel are notable. There's a sense of freshness here, thanks in part to an acid line that is firm and textural (though somewhat disconnected at this stage). Tannins are soft and quite plush, seeming to disappear into the density of the wine's mouthfeel at some points. That's not a bad thing; this is a big wine in the mouth, rounded and smooth, and I like how the tannins simply add stuffing rather than create contrast. Flavours are again utterly typical and gorgeously delicious.

I guess when you have 130 year old vines to play with, it makes sense to highlight what they bring by way of fruit and structure, rather than to smother the fruit with winemaking artifice. Not minimal intervention so much as a sensitivity to what makes this particular wine special. Stylistically, this probably represents what Australia is often criticised for making, but there's a legitimacy to these fruit-driven Barossa wines, especially when the fruit is clearly this good. I liked it a lot.
]]>
Yelland & Papps
Price: $A75
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample ]]> Grosset Springvale Riesling 2011 tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.988 2012-01-03T10:18:36Z 2012-01-03T10:31:08Z It was remiss of me not to review the 2010 Grossets, though I did purchase some as usual. I'll remedy that soon. For now, I'm tasting the newer wines, starting with this Watervale-sourced number.In some years, this wine can be... Julian
In some years, this wine can be explosively aromatic (see, for example, the 2008). 2011 isn't such a year, though it's far from reticent. No, this remains an expressive aroma, but its apparent restraint comes from the particular notes to which it tends. Rather than gobs of citrus juice and flowers, this presents citrus rind, talc and herbs. Still relatively full in profile, it shows good presence and immediacy, without perhaps the etched detail one sometimes sees in this style. Very much a chiselled profile, though, and somewhat more intellectual than usual for this label.

The palate totally reinforces these impressions through alignment of flavour and sympathy of structure. The citrus element comes across more strongly here, and there's a strong run of lemon juice on the middle palate. The dominant notes are, though, more minerally; talc and flint are the best analogues I can muster. The structure is lovely and contributes to the powerdery impression given by the flavours. Acid is firm and textured, drying the after palate in particular. It's very moreish and pleasingly angular.

Given the peculiar vintage conditions, this is something of a surprise and is certainly a very fine wine.
]]>
Grosset Wines
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail ]]> Domaine Gautheron Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin 2005 tag:fullpour.com,2012://1.987 2012-01-01T11:00:27Z 2012-01-02T04:51:57Z If old wines in general are an acquired taste, then surely old white wines in particular are especially so. Without suggesting one must like these wines, I do feel there's value in at least understanding how a wine ages over... Julian
This well-priced Chablis is a good example of a wine that has really come into its own over the last three years. When previously tasted, this came across as tasty but awkward and clumsy, fighting within itself for poise and balance. What a transformation. I believe it's delivering maximum pleasure right now.

The nose is highly expressive and distinctly honeyed, floral and mineral. In other words, showing a range of aromas from primary to tertiary. What I like most, though, is that it presents as a single, complex note rather than a series of discrete ones, no matter how complementary. The sign of a wine in its prime.

The palate's greatest feature is its multifaceted texture. The acid has folded back into the wine, allowing its fullness of mouthfeel to present unobstructed, yet it's a still firm, shapely wine in the mouth. Flavours are again tightly integrated and complex, with more mineral notes, honey and citrus. Intensity isn't outrageous, nor does it lack flavour; just enough, I'd say. Good extension through the back palate.

This is drinking far better now than three years ago and, although it's not a blockbuster style, it's an extremely enjoyable, sophisticated wine.
]]>
Domaine Gautheron
Price: $A38
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail ]]> Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Grand Muscat NV tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.986 2011-12-28T10:42:12Z 2011-12-29T05:54:24Z After indulging in so many fine wines over Christmas, the challenge isn't finding wines to write about but choosing which to spend time on! A particularly good small grower Champagne was tempting, but the best wine of the period was... Julian
Those unfamiliar with the wide variation between house styles may be surprised to learn how different a wine this is from, say, the same grade of Muscat from Morris. Whereas the latter pursues a rich, treacled expression of the style, the Chambers wines are always at the light, delicate end of the spectrum. There is no sacrifice in intensity or complexity, however. These are just less full bodied styles, arguably allowing nuances of flavour to more clearly express themselves. Certainly, the Chambers Muscats and Tokays Topaques Muscadelles are amongst my favourites of the region.

To the wine, then, this presents complex, floral aromas that surprise with their freshness and vivacity. Plum pudding, spice, fresh berries - the list of flavours goes on, and is less interesting than their tight integration and subtle expression. There's just a lot going on here but, aside from its complexity, there does not at first seem much to differentiate the aroma from some of the lesser Muscats made with younger material.

It's only on the palate that the wine's quality becomes fully apparent. The nose's complex flavours are articulated with utmost clarity and impressive impact, making sense of the aroma profile in retrospect while adding whole dimensions of interest. This has the thrust and drive of all the upper echelon Rutherglen fortifieds, but its charm lies in its transparency. This seems totally effortless; it simply unfolds in the mouth and does its impressive thing. No cloying sweetness, nor sticky mouthfeel, nor distracting alcohol, nor roughness. It might be the closest these wines come to elegance, and indeed that may be off putting to some. For me, it's just one more reason to love both this house and the regional style.

At $50 or so for a half bottle, this isn't cheap. But it's several times cheaper than its Rare stablemate ($250 for 375mL) and about as good a wine as one could reasonably want.
]]>
Chambers Rosewood
Price: $A50 (375mL)
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail ]]> Tyrrell's Vat 5 NVC Shiraz 2003 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.985 2011-12-24T08:17:26Z 2011-12-24T08:29:37Z Having last tasted this wine in 2008, I felt it was high time to crack another bottle and see how it's tracking. The short answer is: very well indeed.The nose is a little muted, though some encouragement via swirling releases... Julian last tasted this wine in 2008, I felt it was high time to crack another bottle and see how it's tracking. The short answer is: very well indeed.

The nose is a little muted, though some encouragement via swirling releases dense, liquerous fruit aromas that suggest dark plums and black berries. What's especially gratifying, though, is a sense of definite bottle age that runs through every aroma, adding complexity and decaying elegance. Tobacco, leather, earth; this is just so regional.

The nose's casual whisperings give way to a full-throttle expression of Hunter Shiraz on the palate, packed with density, impact and, happily, freshness. This is absolutely in the zone for my taste: it doesn't want for primary fruit and structure, yet the tertiary notes are in full flower too. Flavours span a wide range: minerals, dark berries, earth leather, spice, tobacco. Structure remains firm and highly textural, slightly rough acid giving the line flow and sparkle, silty tannins contributing volume and texture. As per my previous note, this is in some respects an atypical Hunter Shiraz, lacking the measured body and fleet flavours of some. But it's a compelling view into the region in its own right and shows how great this style can be at the climatic extremes.

I'm thoroughly enjoying this.
]]>
Tyrrell's
Price: $A30
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail ]]> Yelland & Papps Divine Shiraz 2009 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.984 2011-12-18T11:03:50Z 2011-12-19T11:09:47Z I pondered the stylistic choices made in last year's model, and on pouring it's immediately obvious the same path has been pursued here. This is a wine that leaves one in no doubt of its position at the top of... Julian last year's model, and on pouring it's immediately obvious the same path has been pursued here. This is a wine that leaves one in no doubt of its position at the top of the range.

The nose is dominated by the most seductive, expensive oak. Coffee, brown spice, Muscovado sugar; it's quite overwhelming and, it has to be said, impressive. Slowly but surely, a rich vein of Barossa fruit starts to emerge, forcing its way through the planks. It's distinctively regional in the blockbuster sense, redolent of plum liqueur and fruit cake. I've only been sitting with this for an hour or so, and have no doubt the fruit's emergence will continue for some time.

The palate is more immediately fruited, which may come as a relief after the hyper masculine, somewhat forbidding aroma. On entry, spurts of fruit outrun enthusiastic oak and land on a middle palate that is highly spiced and less brutish than one might expect. Indeed, there's a pleasing levity to this wine that is at odds with its confrontational flavour profile and which grants it welcome light and shade. Structure is ever-present, as much driven by slightly hot acid as by chalky tannin. The after palate is driven by coffee and spice, the finish long.

It's hard to assess such styles when young. I do know it's a dense wine, full of impact and  designed to wow. What I'm interested to see is how this ages; whether the fruilt and oak will achieve balance, how the flavours will evolve.

Day 2: the wine has markedly lost its roughest edges and fruit is flowing more cleanly now. Still a massively dense wine, but much more drinkable and balanced. The fruit itself is most attractive. Give it ten years.
]]>
Yelland & Papps
Price: $A75
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample ]]> Salo Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2010 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.983 2011-12-14T09:07:19Z 2011-12-14T09:20:37Z Made in tiny quantities, lots of whole bunch action, an apparent passion project; this is practically collapsing under the weight of its own cred. What's gratifying, therefore, is its relative subtlety. The nose, especially, starts almost mute, gradually releasing aromas... Julian
What's gratifying, therefore, is its relative subtlety. The nose, especially, starts almost mute, gradually releasing aromas of flint, oatmeal, linseed oil and, eventually, some white stonefruit. It's never especially expressive, and I do wish for a bit more volume (in time, I think), but its complexity is undeniable.

The palate is powerful and quite masculine in character, as if a taciturn character gives way to a muscular bulk it just can't hide. A sharp, clean entry broadens to a middle palate awash with fruit and savouriness. Peaches, herbs, minerals. The standout dimension is texture, and I love the way this wine moves over the tongue with a deliciously tangible, mealy texture. Intensity is impressive, but it seems to trade some definition for all its power and complexity. Everything here points to a focused articulation of flavours, but just before the money shot, it loses concentration and blurs its form. Reasonable people can disagree about whether this is desirable; personally, I yearned for it to go all the way and express each of its components with crystal clarity.

A very interesting wine.
]]>
Salo
Price: $A40
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift ]]> Thomas Kiss Shiraz 2009 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.982 2011-12-11T10:52:27Z 2011-12-11T11:08:44Z This is the second of Andrew Thomas's 2009 Shirazes that I've tasted. The first impressed me a good deal with its uncompromisingly regional style. This beast is a little different.A deep, earthy, spiky nose. The words "clean" and "Hunter" haven't... Julian The first impressed me a good deal with its uncompromisingly regional style. This beast is a little different.

A deep, earthy, spiky nose. The words "clean" and "Hunter" haven't always gone together, but they find compatibility in this wine's aroma profile. Regional dirt and rustic red berries expressed clearly in a nose that's both typical and glossily modern. What I like about this expression of Hunter shiraz is that it does not forsake regionally for style; this is a true interpretation of modern Hunter, looking for new ways to say the same old things. It is, however, clearly different from more traditional styles, and may lose as many fans as it gains because of this.

The palate is quite structured, driving a firm line right through to the finish. Lots of bubblegum oak tannins, evenly spread and, for now, contributing an astringent, bouncily sweet influence to the flavour profile. Is the character of the oak here an ideal match to the fruit flavours?  I'm not sure -- at times, it feels too sweet -- but most of the time it just tastes good, so I'm happy to go with its stylistic flow. Riding atop is a dense whack of regional red fruit squished into the dustiest of dirt roads. There's an ease to this wine which belies the amount of oak that's present. The way the palate unfolds is powerful and confident.

Ultimately,  the fruit is just so gorgeous here I could drown myself in it with or without the level of oak. I don't feel there's a lack of balance; rather, the winemaking choices frame the fruit differently from how it often is and, personal preferences aside, there's no doubting the coherence of the style.
]]>
Thomas Wines
Price: $A60
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Gift ]]> Clonakilla O'Riada Shiraz 2010 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.981 2011-12-09T11:42:30Z 2011-12-09T12:28:26Z You've got to love a Shiraz that looks like a Pinot.And that's the first impression of this wine; shockingly light in colour, lacking the density that regular drinkers of Australian Shiraz might easily take for granted. The fact that I... Julian
And that's the first impression of this wine; shockingly light in colour, lacking the density that regular drinkers of Australian Shiraz might easily take for granted. The fact that I could see light pass right through it in my glass had a profound effect on me. That a well-known producer might release a wine so flagrantly at odds with conventional expectations of this varietal made me feel all of a sudden that Australian Shiraz has come of age, that there's legitimacy to the wide range of classic styles we produce, that we are, indeed, the true home of this chameleon-like grape. That's a lot to pile on a single wine, let alone one that is effectively a second label. But as the shining, ruby-like liquid poured into my glass, I felt lucky to be able to enjoy such confidently different expressions of our great grape.

There's no disappointment here. A cursory sniff immediately establishes this wine's cool climate credentials. Red fruits abound, but what strikes first is a cascade of pepper and spice, dried flowers and etched detail. I can understand why cool climate Shiraz challenges some drinkers, but there's such pleasure in these perfumed aromatics, which seem closer to fine fragrance than to anything agricultural. Especially beguiling is a shake of dried herbs that darts in and out of what is a complex, constantly shifting aroma profile.

The palate is light to medium bodied, as the wine's appearance and aroma suggest. A spiced attack leads to more expansive flavours on the middle palate, always focused but with greater range and more fully fruited. There's a nice meatiness to the flavour profile too, and I would love to try this wine with some top quality snags or a juicy rack of lamb. Smoked herbs dominate the after palate before a detailed, savoury finish lingers on. Acid is bright and fine, tannins sandpaperish.

An utterly satisfying wine and one that banishes all thought of cool climate Shiraz sitting anywhere near the stylistic sidelines in Australia.
]]>
Clonakilla
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Retail ]]> Kingston Estate Petit Verdot 2010 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.980 2011-12-05T08:50:10Z 2011-12-05T09:16:45Z While I rather enjoyed Kingston Estate's upper end Petit Verdot, my memory of the prior release of this wine isn't an especially fond one, so much so that I don't believe I wrote it up. There's interest for me in... Julian upper end Petit Verdot, my memory of the prior release of this wine isn't an especially fond one, so much so that I don't believe I wrote it up. There's interest for me in these accessible wines, though, especially those made from alternate varieties. It's good to have options at the lower end apart from Shiraz and Cabernet (and the occasional Merlot), and I believe any encouragement of variety in drinking ought to be positively noted.

So I wholeheartedly applaud the idea of this wine, which is, needless to say, a different thing from enjoying the wine itself. Again, as with the previous release, this doesn't entirely satisfy me. There's the more expensive wine's purple fruit and plushness of character, but with a coarse edge and sense of less than ideal ripeness. Volume isn't in question, though. There's plenty of aroma to go around, and just the slightest hint of confected berries.

The palate flows cleanly, starting with a soft entry that rests almost entirely on ripe red berries. The middle palate shows a touch more acid and, less happily, a distinctly overripe fruit note. Density seems to recede the further the line progresses, with the after palate speaking more of soft structure than fullness of fruit. The finish is lean and mean, lacking the soft landing such a style would really benefit from.

This isn't without merit, and would go down a treat as a slightly different BBQ red. There's just a little too much to distract, though, for it to be truly enjoyable in more contemplative circumstances.
]]>
Kingston Estate
Price: $A14.99
Closure: Stelvin
Source: Sample ]]> Domaine du Meix-Foulot Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Château de Montaigu 2002 tag:fullpour.com,2011://1.979 2011-11-30T09:13:09Z 2011-12-01T06:25:02Z Cheap Burgundy. I can see you shuddering from here.A lovely orange-red Pinot colour, not especially dense. The nose is really appealing and quite youthful considering the wine's age and modest status. Prickly mushroom and fresh red fruits, some sap and... Julian
A lovely orange-red Pinot colour, not especially dense. The nose is really appealing and quite youthful considering the wine's age and modest status. Prickly mushroom and fresh red fruits, some sap and minerality as well. The whole is laid back, a comforting blanket of nougat oak underlining the fundamentally quiet, almost cuddly aroma profile.

The palate is similarly constructed: light, nimble, pleasing flavours and a distinct lack of aggression. Entry is brightly acidic, flavours starting at red fruit and moving through to a more complex mix on the middle palate, then turning quite savoury through the after palate and finish. It's a lean flavour profile, focusing on astringency and savouriness rather than fullness of fruit. I like it, but can see that it would puzzle some. Certainly, it would be misleading to call this wine generous in any way, but in a sense that is its strength and charm. It caresses the palate so easily, with such little effort, that its relative lack of stuffing matters very little. Its pleasures are to be found in its ephemeral presence on the tongue, the clarity of its components and the way it never forces any of its points.

A delicious, refreshing Pinot for not a lot of money. I think it has a few years left in it too.
]]>
Domaine du Meix Foulot
Price: $A42
Closure: Cork
Source: Retail ]]>