Clayfield Massif Thomas Wills Shiraz 2006
Clayfield Wines is a small maker in the Grampians region helmed by a most engaging winemaker in Simon Clayfield. I recently purchased the currently available range (three Shirazes), and this is the first I've tried. It's the "second" label wine, priced at a very reasonable $A24.
Absolute Grampians Shiraz. A deeply spiced, incense-like nose full of dark, ripe plum fruit. Being a cool climate style, the fruit isn't as riotous as something from the Barossa (for example), but is clean, stylish and distinctive. There's also a positive oak note, cheery and bubble gum-like, that suits the fruit well. The aroma seems very slightly lifted in an attractive manner.
On the palate, a firm acid structure creates lively tension and flow. Entry has good impact and introduces bright plum flavour quickly onto the tongue. Assertive pepper-like spice is also present in considerable quantities, and this, combined with a strongly textural influence, means this wine comes across as quite nervy, at least initially. The middle palate is where things start to fill out, with greater depth of plum fruit and a certain plushness of body. It's a medium bodied wine, brisk and alive, though certainly not one for those who gravitate towards wines characterised by a soft, smooth mouthfeel. In fact, it strikes me as somewhat Italianate, albeit of a completely different flavour profile from something like Chianti. As it moves to the after palate, there's an intriguing stalk-like note that shows pleasing astringency. This continues to the finish, along with grainy tannins and a hint of bitterness.
As the evening has progressed, this wine has continued to fill out and gain some complexity in its flavour profile. This would appear to suggest the need for some bottle age to reveal its inherent potential. A real food style at present, which is a compliment as far as I'm concerned.
This is drinking so well right now. I had a bottle last night; intense spice and Grampians plum, this is all about elegance and detail. There's a bit of bottle age flavour development adding complexity too. I'm glad I got a few of these on release.