Is it possible to know a vineyard after tasting its output only twice? Hardly, or at least not in every respect. But those sites of special interest are so partly because they impart a particular character, hopefully attractive, to the wines made from their fruit. A truism, perhaps, and something of an abstract religion to those who place importance in the idea of a goût de terroir. Yet how striking when you have a real, live example in front of you, as I have this evening.
I tasted the 2008 version of this wine the other day, and enjoyed its accord of soft, elegant fruit and Eden minerality. And what strikes me instantly on smelling this older wine is the same beautiful character of fruit; pastel, watercolour, gauze-like fruit. That's the Karra Yerta vineyard, surely, in my glass now just as it was the other night. Perhaps this seems obvious and trite, but I consider it a marvel on a small scale, something essential and beautiful.
The palate is a slightly more austere, marginally aged, version of the younger wine, which is as it should be. There's a fantastic thrust of acidity that picks up on entry and carries the wine right through its impressive finish. Along the way, tart lime juice, left-of-centre minerality (it reminds of white Burgundy, for some reason) and more of that distinctively elegant fruit, more like a painting of a white peach than the fruit itself. A nice surge of intensity through the middle palate fits within the wine's architecture rather than spilling outside it. There's no great influence of bottle age bar a touch of honey.
A truly excellent Riesling that is about the Eden Valley, the Karra Yerta vineyard and the season in which it was grown. For those with an interest in terroir, I would advise to rush out and buy some -- if it weren't already sold out.
I couldn't have put this more elegantly myself. You clearly have a great understanding of this producer who I/we have loved since we first came across it!
I'm not sure I flatter myself to that extent, but I definitely enjoyed this wine and am happy to hear others have had a similar experience. It's a very exciting wine.
Amazed that you can still buy this, should be sold out. Had a bottle last night. Still a bub.
BTW does your most recent post on wine tasting as bloodsport mean I can't bring a knife when we catch up on your return? ;)
You are, as ever, the exception to any rule I might create :)