It's probably not the best idea to taste wine while you're baking a cake, but as Philip White wrote recently in defense of mixing fragrance and wine: as if wine was always meant to be drunk in sterilised rooms. In fact, the smells of baking are stimulating my appetite in the most gluttonous manner, and I'd like to think this provides an appropriately domestic context for the tasting. A Village Burgundy from Vosne-Romanée, I've had the previous vintage on a few occasions and enjoyed it each time. However, 2005 was, by all accounts, an extraordinary vintage, so I'm curious to see what 2006 says about how this site expresses itself in less exceptional circumstances.
Jacques Cacheux & Fils
Price: $A63
Closure: Cork
Somewhat differently, it turns out. The aroma is hard in a woody, stalky manner that, I must admit, has its own odd appeal. Nowhere near as funky as the 2005, this wine presents more straightforward fruit character. I don't mean to imply it's not complex and delicious -- it rather is -- just in a different manner. The nose is actually quite expressive and spews forth notes of icing sugar on raspberries, rose water and all manner of preserved meats. It's a bit disjointed, very distinctive and perhaps will be divisive too. I rather like it.
The palate shows greater definition than the aroma at present. Entry is cool and sleek, delivering the sort of refreshment usually associated with a glass of cold water. It quickly becomes flavoursome in a lightly fruit-driven manner, with savoury red berries and more funky smoked notes the dominant elements. The whole is quite light bodied and fleet, though with surprising intensity, especially on the after palate. Acidity is firm and tannins are fairly loose-knit. Oak is quite well judged here, sort of nougat-like in character and fairly light on in volume. The finish mirrors the entry in terms of cleanliness, ending with a fresh thrust of savoury fruit that lingers deliciously and for some time.
I really like this but I admit it's a bit odd too, not quite coming together as a whole argument. Rather, it makes its points in a carefree manner, not striving too hard for an overarching narrative. Let go of your need for coherence and enjoy disconnected bursts of beauty instead. I'm looking forward to drinking the rest over dinner.
Jacques Cacheux & Fils
Price: $A63
Closure: Cork
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