J. K. Carriere Glass 2008

This is the second vintage of this wine I'd had the chance to drink, and you know what? I just don't get it. I love pink wine, I love JK Carriere's pinot noir and chardonnay, and this wine? Let's just say that anyone who likes this wine presumably really, really loves this wine; to me, it's kind of like reading Pravda: it's still recognizably a newspaper, but it sure doesn't read like one, at least not to me.

So what is this wine like? It's impossibly pale in the glass, more pale than any other pink wine I know. The smell, such as it is, is faint, fragile; it reminds me of traditional English summer drinks such as elderflower-scented water, potentially even rose-and-cucumber water. The acidity is lively, there's just a hint of carbonation - OK, not really, more the suggestion of spritzig-ness - but on the whole it feels empty, strangely lacking to me. I suppose it's just missing some ephemeral complementary foodstuff that I haven't figured out yet - my friend Mark was thinking maybe goat cheese? - but on it's own it's very much an enigma, at least to me.

J. K. Carriere
Price: $20
Closure: Cork

2 Comments

It definitely is a food wine. That acidity will not be really appealing, otherwise. I recommend light, summer fare. Goat cheese could work, as part of a salad, or fresh green accompaniment. Scallops are nice, or pan-seared, broiled, or poached fish (anything but breaded and deep fried).

It's a unique wine because it has subtlety, but begs for food. This makes food-matching harder than usual because you don't want to overwhelm the wine.

My prime choice would be a moderately oily white fish, pan-seared (finished in the oven), and topped with a lightish beurre blanc (no cream - just butter). Bright summer herbs, like cilantro, will do nicely. Asian flavors are not bad, especially Thai. I could see this wine going very nicely with a chile/lime/cilantro/fish sauce combo of flavors.

Hey Alex - thanks for the lengthy comment! I definitely need to work on my food prep skills - I'm in the habit of drinking wines like this while waiting for dinner to finish cooking, but I think that really doesn't do this wine justice. I'm eagerly awaiting the next shipment from JK Carriere and will definitely try your suggestion of pan-seared fish - that sounds perfect.

Incidentally, I saw JK Carriere pinot noir for $65 a half bottle on a wine list in Cincinnati last weekend. Nice to see them on the menu!

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