I've previously reflected on varietal correctness and how, ultimately, a specific goût de terroir often excites me more than clarity of varietal character. This Canberra Region wine is a great example of regionality trumping grape variety and, if for no other reason, is worth tasting to see what Canberra does to Cabernet.
Despite the "verbal diarrhoea" approach to wine writing we espouse at Full Pour, I often struggle to find words that feel satisfyingly accurate when describing a wine's character. Canberra Shiraz is a case in point -- I recognise a consistency across many examples of Shiraz from this region, but articulating the nature of this consistency defies me. My best attempt comprises phrases like "medium bodied," "sweet, slightly medicinal red fruits," and "spice." What's interesting about this wine, and perhaps the region as a whole, is how Cabernet has somehow absorbed the same tendencies shown by its fellow red grape. One sees this in Hunter wines too (look no further than Lake's Folly Cabernet) and, for me, it's a point of some fascination.
To this wine more specifically. A powerful, sharp nose with the aforementioned medicinal fruit character surging and, eventually, overpowering delicate varietal dustiness. There are some roast meat notes too, perhaps a little leafiness. I'm not sure I've tasted many Cabernets like this, but it's compelling and attractive in its own right. In the mouth, a medium bodied, stridently acidic experience. There's a real liveliness to this wine's flavours of savoury red fruits, caramel and spice, thanks mostly to the acid structure. It fairly zips down the middle of the tongue, becoming a little compressed on the after palate thanks to chalky tannins that creep in from the sides. Quite a long finish, not so much flavoursome as persistently dry.
It's not especially complex or intense, but the flavour profile is what makes this wine enjoyable to taste, especially if you are a fan of Canberra Shiraz. It says something about the durability of a region that it is capable of so strongly imprinting its character on a wine. Good value.
Glad you have embraced the "verbal diarrhoea" approach to wine writing that Mr Hoolian first commented on :)
It works very well indeed, at least as far as I'm concerned!
At $20 will have to look out for this too.
cheers
jeremy