Annie's Lane Copper Trail Shiraz Grenache Mourvèdre 2004
I was hoping for a robust, rustic Clare Valley red in the traditional mould, but what I've got in front of me is something quite different. There's no shortage of flavour here. On the nose, a complex mix of eucalyptus, dark fruit, slightly sauvage vegetal notes and black pepper. It takes some teasing apart, and on first sniff I comprehensively failed to understand its nuances. I'm not sure whether I actually like the aroma profile, but there's no denying its interest and complexity.
In the mouth, a curiously contradictory mix of a seductively supple mouthfeel and a flavour profile that echoes the angularity of the aroma. Lots of flavour quite early on entry, and this continues through to the middle palate, where a blend of funky vegetal flavours mingles with dark fruit and a hint of sweet vanilla oak. This isn't an easy wine by any means. It never rises above medium bodied and this weight, combined with a savoury flavour profile, means it remains a focused experience. Tannins start to creep in through the after palate and these are a welcome textural influence. The finish is fruit sweet but a bit echoey too, lacking the drive I'd ideally like.
Not sure what to make of this one. It's savoury, odd, textural, complex, characterful and provocative. One to drink and debate.
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