I've got a soft spot for Taylors, as much for the good value of its standard range as for the fact that I enjoyed many a good evening out on its wines before I became interested in what I drink, as opposed to being simply interested in drinking. St Andrews is Taylors' premium label, a range I don't have much experience with beyond the Riesling. I do enjoy a nice Clare red, though, so here goes with the St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon from 2004.
If ever one wanted to illustrate the joys of New World winemaking, this would be a good wine to showcase. It's just so correct and clean. A blast of pure, slightly sweet Cabernet fruit is the most prominent aroma, accompanied by varietal dust, regional eucalypt and umami galore (roast beef and gravy). Totally coherent and convincing, and not the least bit funky.
The palate is a precise, joyous replay of the nose. On entry, the wine is slightly aggressive and prickly, which is a function of its meaty flavour profile as much as a structure that is generous with the acid (though in balance). By the time the middle palate arrives, the flavour has hit its stride and is all about generous, clean blackcurrant fruit. It's so pure and intense it verges on DMS-like, but never becomes quite that obvious. Continuing the journey, eucalyptus and cedar emerge as key notes through the after palate, which may bother some people. If I were to be hyper critical, flavour intensity dips a little here. Compensation, however, arrives in the form of prominent, well-textured, almost-rustic tannins that dry the tongue and provide drive through the satisfying finish.
I'm really enjoying the generosity, structure and straightforwardness of this wine. One of the least pretentious "premiums" I've had the pleasure of tasting. Drink with a big rump steak (as I'm just about to do).
Worth the dollars Julian?
I dunno. Personally I think anything above about $40 starts to defy concepts like "value for money." ;) With this wine, if I paid $50-odd for it, which is probably what you'd be up for at retail, I'd be happy with the purchase. It's got a real sense of integrity as a wine.