Peter Lehmann Eden Valley Riesling 2007
When cold, a restrained aroma that is part delicate flowers and part stone. There is a hint of sweet, slightly tropical fruit running underneath all the high toned goodness, though it seems to duck for cover whenever it is in danger of being fully recognised. Some vigorous swirling rebalances the wine, the aeration and higher temperature bringing the fruit forward considerably, such that it ends up being a softer, more luscious expression of Riesling (within the context of the style).
In the mouth, an odd experience. I didn't taste this wine on release, so can only go on what's in my glass now, and I would say it is just turning down the path to bottle aged maturity. There's flint and chalk galore, but the fruit is detached from it and curiously blurry. It tastes like a lemon that has been squashed and whose insides have been ejected indelicately outside of its original diameter. By which I mean it's not shapely or well defined; rather, it seems a bit fat. Nuances of honey suggest it is, in fact, relaxing into adulthood, though its current awkwardness marks it very much an adolescent. There's a slightly waxy note that I'm enjoying. A long, lemon honey finish rounds things off well.
I quite like this wine, but suspect now isn't the right time to be drinking it. Three years' time might be a different story.
Quite right Julian, normally Eden Valley Riesling goes to sleep after the second year. They start comming out the other side of this hibernation at around 5 years. Reborn with traces of honey and toast but still carrying really fine minerally acidity. Thanks for the review.
Hi Ian, and thanks for stopping by. Thanks also for confirming my thoughts on this wine -- it's by no means unpleasant to drink right now but it feels tangibly "in between" stages. I'll look forward to another taste in a few years.