Only this afternoon I was listening to Max Allen's Crush podcasts, which briefly discuss various Australian wine regions in Mr Allen's typically fanciful style. The episode on Langhorne Creek discusses at some length the relative invisibility of this South Australian region, although plantings there are extensive. Fortuitously, I came across this wine when rummaging through the "cellar" at home. Not only is it a Langhorne Creek wine, but (according to the back label, anyway) is made expressly to showcase the region's qualities. "Created" by Cellarmasters but made at Bleasdale, the wine was assembled from several growers' grapes; each grower is listed on the back label. Genuine regional pride or especially clever marketing -- you be the judge.
Cellarmasters (Bleasdale)
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
An inky, dense colour, quite black really with edges of ruby. I'm quite sure colour misleads one's perception of flavour (in fact, I'm sure there are studies that demonstrate the fact), so my impression of this wine's nose as dark and inky is probably suspect. No, it really is dark and inky, full of concentrated berry fruit and quite lovely, cedary oak. There's probably a hint of bottle age too, though the wine remains quite primary at this stage.
The palate manages to be both seriously dense and easygoing at the same time. Perhaps it achieves this through a proper sense of scale; although the wine packs a lot of flavour, it never seems to challenge polite proportions. Clean, dark fruit runs over generous vanilla and tobacco notes, all of which rest on a bed of fine, ripe tannin. To be sure, this is a very ripe style, somewhat porty in character (though only 14% abv), but within its context well balanced. It is complex? Not particularly, though the fruit is quite savoury and, to me, communicates some sophistication. A relaxed, rather expansive and slightly sweet finish rounds things off.
A real bangers and mash wine.
Cellarmasters (Bleasdale)
Price: $A35
Closure: Stelvin
Nice TNs. I think a lot of Langhorne Creek reds fall into this sort of category.
I read people describe wines as sexy, and whilst that sort of descriptor is not my thing, if some wines are sexy then a good Langhorne red is made for spooning.
There is usually a lot of comforting regional presence and fruit quality which can withstand a healthy dash of oak. Maybe not the GI capable of producing the most complex of wines, still it's certainly one I'd be happy to spend the night with regularly.
cheers
jeremy
Ah yes, that old chestnut -- the sexually charged tasting note. I admit I have to consciously refrain from using that sort of imagery at times because, let's face it, some wines demand it. Or am I simply "blaming the wine"? ;)
This wine's fruit character is definitely the type that goes well with glossy oak. Very flavoursome and comforting, if not the sort of wine I drink very often. As we discussed the other day, though, different wines for different occasions...
I have no problem with "sexually charged" TNs. Just personally steer clear of them, along with the "genderfication" descriptors. They still communicate something, which is all I'm interested in.
Needless to say in full agreement with different wines for different occasions, and also think Langhorne can really soak up the oak well. Just depends on whether you feel like spooning I guess :)