Still fairly youthful in the glass - visually, it looks like a medium-weight Zinfandel - this has a decidedly aged nose, the tell-tale stink of time overriding much of anything else. To be honest, it smells an awful lot like a greasy hamburger (and I don't mean that pejoratively): very meaty, a little bit smoky, and kind of fatty. It's kind of like a cherry cough drop that fell into the bacon fat jar next to your grandmother's stove, actually.
Once you drink some, there's an immediate hit of cherry followed by fairly thick, dusty tannins with high, nearly Italianate acidity. The complexity is surprising, tending towards bright red fruits with a supporting hint of porty chocolate; all in all, it strikes me as weirdly Italian (I know, I know).
God only knows what's in this or how much it cost; I suppose I'd have to go find the packing slip from the wine club shipment to find out, but right now all I want to do is finish this bottle and order a pizza.
Bonny Doon
This is/was a fantastic wine, showing finesse and complexity without being bombastic.
Bonny Doon wines can be weird, but this one is excellent. One of the best reds I've had in a fair while.