I retrieved a mini-vertical of Clonakilla Rieslings from storage recently, and have already tasted the 2002. Here, now, is the 2003, of which I have several bottles but no recollection of tasting on release. A poor memory of one's own wine collection is more advantageous than it sounds, as it allows for the wonderful experience of discovery multiple times per wine. Now that's value.
A toasty nose that immediately establishes aged cred. I've been tasting this through the evening, and warmer temperature has given the wine a friendlier, more approachable flavour profile. It's still quite austere though, with hints of honey and toast sitting alongside stonier, savoury notes. Overall, an interesting aroma profile that is markedly different from the more streamlined Clare style. Very clean.
The palate shows an opulence only hinted at on the nose. Firm, marginally coarse acidity ushers flavours of honey, toasted nuts and apple onto the mid-palate. There are also fleeting notes of stonefruit that have an almost grapey juiciness. When cold, the acidity registers as a tingly mouthfeel, but as the wine reaches room temperature, it gains a smoother, more round presence that is very attractive. The aged flavours are up front without being cloying, and for my taste are well balanced with respect to a still-youthful structure and residual powdery-floral flavour profile. A nice shot of honey and mineral through the after palate, and a really good finish to boot, although some bitterness detracts ever so slightly.
This is drinking well right now, perhaps better than the 2002. It lacks a sense of genuine, integrated complexity, despite the contribution of bottle age, that would elevate it to the top echelon of Rieslings. Not every wine, however, needs to be mind bendingly difficult. Drink now with a light chicken curry.
Price: $A22
Closure: Stelvin
Date tasted: July 2008
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