William Downie Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2006

Clad in equally stylish packaging, this wine is the Yarra Valley sibling to William Downie's Mornington Peninsula Pinot tasted earlier at Full Pour. I really enjoyed the latter wine, especially after some extended breathing, and I enjoy what Mr Downie is doing with Pinot; that is, allowing regionality to speak for itself without attempt at imposing a sense of homogeneity. This is winemaking without ego, and it's what I drink wine for.

Deep but not especially dense colour, mixtures of orange and red and purple (and nowhere near as gaudy as that sounds). The nose is a riot of aromas from first pouring, and only improves with air. Instantly a deeper, darker wine than the Mornington Peninsula label, there are notes of turkish delight, ripe plum, bubble gum, sweet spice and other goodness, even a hint of sous-bois. Expressive and complex but with a sense of poise too, despite its generosity.

Palate is equally fascinating, though perhaps a little unexpectedly controlled after the nose. The fruit's depth and ripeness is certainly confirmed here. Entry is alive and sufficiently (though not overly) acidic, with a nice focused flow over the tongue. Flavour drives a tight line to the middle palate, where things settle and relax a little. The wine, interestingly, shoots off in a few directions at this point, with a high toned fruit lift on the one hand, and a foundation of ripe plum on the other, not at odds, but instead indicative of excellent definition and structure. Grainy tannins emerge quite late in the palate and help dark fruit flavour to reverberate through a very lengthy, impressive finish.

There's a lot going on with this wine, and its complexity will surely increase with time. If you can keep your hands off it. The fact is, it is fabulous right now, with its ultra-delicious flavour profile and approachable structure. Now or later, it's a win-win.

William Downie
Price: $A40
Closure: Diam
Date tasted: June 2008

4 Comments

I never reviewed this wine myself, although I certainly enjoyed drinking a bottle. My memory says you have captured this very well. I'll also add that you are writing some of the best, most considered wine reviews about - professional or amateur. If you happened to read Andrew Caillard's snippy little piece in last months AGT wine, then I'd hold you (and Eduardo at WinoSapien) up as a fine example of how good some internet reviews are.
GW

I thank you, Captain Awesom-O! That's very encouraging.

May I echo GW's comments. I have only today discovered your website but have been enjoying the notes and comments. You are now bookmarked and I look forward to many more visits. Thanks Bill.

Thanks Bill, I appreciate the feedback very much!

Best,

Julian.

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