Rosemount Estate Epicurean Collection GSM Grenache - Syrah - Mourvédre 2002

Although I've never wandered out into Scottish bogs to cut peat for a crofter's fire, I imagine it might smell something like this wine does: dark, loamy, and sweet at the same time. There's definitely more than a hint of animalics here; it's got that kind of sweetness on the nose that reminds me of more than a few perfumes [e.g. Comme des Garçons 2 Man]. There's kind of a high-toned flare [flair?] to it as well; it isn't all heavy, funky; there's also an uplift to the perfume which rounds it off nicely.

Color-wise, this wine looks like Bandol more than anything else; it doesn't appear particularly old at this point, and the rim isn't especially watery. There's a bit of onionskin browning there, sure, but it could fool you into thinking that this wine is younger than it is.

In the mouth, there's a short burst of sweetness immediately checked by firm, dusty tannins; the flavor makes a sharp turn upwards to something like carrots or root vegetables (no kidding!), before flattening out into a fairly long, soft finish with good acidity. All in all, it feels like there's an awful lot going on here; there are also some cedary notes as well as a Vegemite-on-raspberry effect.

I'd hazard a guess that this will will still be drinking well a decade from now, but I'm far from an expert in these matters. If anything, it's beautiful right now and highly recommended (especially at the US importer's clearance pricing).

Rosemount Estate

Price: US $9.99
Closure: Cork
Date tasted: April 2008

Note: The label actually says GSM, but I was amused by its Web site nomenclature, reproduced above. C'mon... Epicurean Collection? Give me a break!

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